| Author |
Message |
Darrell Milton Tomlinson (Milton)
New member
Username: Milton
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2010 - 6:26 pm: | |
I need some advise about sealing my steel and iron. My work is made for the indoors exclusively. I already seal the steel and copper in my smaller works with Renaissance micro-crystaline wax and this works just fine. Of course, I do this after sandblasting or electric cup brushing the metals to prepare the surface. I have used a relatively cheap spray acrylic to seal my larger sculptures which works for awhile on pieces that happen to be in humid areas, but soon afterward begins to show oxidation. Not using cheap acrylic to do the job is obviously the problem so what do you suggest I use? I do not have an appropriate air compressor and I am wanting to find a sealer that has a matt finish. I'm hoping I don't have to wax the larger sculptures as well. |
James Garvey (Jgcirclec)
New member
Username: Jgcirclec
Post Number: 10
Registered: 1-2004
| | Posted on Monday, November 29, 2010 - 11:56 am: | |
Darrell, there is a product by Boeing that works well, "T-9". it can be obtained from McMaster-Carr industrial supply. I spray tiny things and I-beams and the rust stays away for more than a year inside. There are also bags that are available from McMaster that have rust inhibitive properties; you can come back three years later to a piece that you finished with the nice wax and it will be the way you put it in the bag. Hmm? it is still good...
If you take a moment on the web site you can look at the "corrosion, inhibitors" in the index. There is a whole set of products made by LPS to deal with rust that are designed for military and industry. I have come to accept this engineering/development as reliable solution for my needs because it enables the surface to remain free from paint or primer or even from the clinical (compromising) affect that comes with sandblasting. I try to find the way that I can focus on getting the piece to be 'good' to my eye and then spray on the inhibitor. We have a big advantage over glass blowers; we can rework things at the end. And over potters; we don't have to wait for the outcome of our glazing talent. JG favorite finish is "forge Patina" with T-9. After grinding, filing, and/or sanding I reheat the entire surface using coal forge and large fire to dull red and let it cool. Note, the piece can finally be seen as somewhat objective view. I have learned that I can also make proportion change and come back to this place in no time. Then I can spary on the T-9 and it is good for years as indoor piece. okay... |
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